The Highlights – London Collections: Men

Fashion Editor Cole Simmons summarises his 5 favourite shows…

1. Hackett

Hackett LMC

1. It is perhaps the finest example of how British heritage brands can rise from the glory days of the past and move to first place securing a top spot among the world’s leading brands. Dressing both traditional and au courant men about town, Hackett receives high marks with the latest collection of beautifully tailored creations. While the colours of gray, teal and burgundy are nothing new for autumn what was unexpected from a brand we usually see a lot of tweed from (and that is a good thing, of course) were the choice of velvet trousers and the welcomed injection of clementine gloves, oxblood ties and crimson trousers.

Complete your British dandy look with this Hackett bowler hat. Perfect for a Sunday brunch or an outdoor wedding in the country.

2. Richard James

RJ LMC

2. The personification of quality. The tailored shoulder. The flattering silhouette. Contrary to popular belief dressing like a gentleman has not and will not ever go out of style. Richard James latest show set the record straight. For this we are eternally grateful.

Have enough silk scarves? Good, one more couldn’t possibly hurt. Knotted Ascot style a scarf is the ideal way of capturing the perfectly polished look.

3. Hardy Amies

Hardy Amies LMC

3. Hardy Amies proved this season cool and traditional can go hand in hand. When Shakespeare wrote Hamlet and penned the now famous words “to be or not to be…tis Nobler in the mind to suffer” perhaps he was inspired by the purchasing of a checked jacket.While everyone you know may have the standard green and red tartan blazer-trouser combination Amies blue and black checked blazer and coats had me at “hello”. This isn’t a designer who tries to be someone he’s not (he spend weekends in his youth at Balmoral) but with designs this beautiful he shows men how to be just as well dressed as he is.

Buy the jacket. Go on, just do it.

4. E. Tautz – Patrick Grant

LMC

4. Lights, camera, action, sure these are all terms we hear in association with glamour but ask any tailor the difference between a well made suit and one that ought never to see the light of the day and they’ll reply with one word, “cut”. E. Tautz’s Patrick Grant (creative director) collection this week showed us just how to make an indelible impression without saying a word with a bold mixture of bright and dark exquisitely woven coats. My favourite (and no-doubt yours too) was the unforgettable orange, grey and black wool coat.

5. Clive Darby – Rake

Rake LMC

5. Remember the first time you read The Great Gatsby and as you turned the pages your mind was filled with imaginings of what it would be like for you to dance all night with Daisy Buchanan sipping Moët? Surely you would have been dressed in Clive Darby’s designs from his Rake collection. I can just imagine Fitzgerald sitting at the show writing up the scenes for the classic American tale.

My favourite piece from the collection was the double-breasted blue blazer with off-white buttons. You simply cannot go wrong in a double-breasted blazer.

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Editor Harry Jarman discusses his favourite ‘looks’ from the past week and the impact they are causing around the world.

London Collections: Men showed the world why London is fast becoming a fashion force that competes with the likes of Paris and Milan.

Oliver Spencer AW13

oliver-spencer-2013-fall-winter-collection-2

Spencer is best known for unstructured tailoring workwear and his AW13 collection demonstrated this well. Strong themes included loosely cut hunting jackets, thick soled shoe’s and deep mustard colours.

Alexander McQueen AW13

Alexander Mcqueen

Alexander McQueen’s AW13 show seemed to be inspired by military tailoring with a touch of the 1920’s/Great Gatsby about it. Sarah Burton’s collection was bold and a testament to British design.

Hackett AW13

Hackett

Last June’s Hackett SS13’s London Collection was the highlight of the shows, with their overwhelming ending. Although not such a spectacle this time around, Hackett stuck to what they know and produced a tailored collection, with some beautiful evening wear and velvet was continuing to show through.

The English Gentleman

Savile Row

The Savile Row show at Spencer House, aptly named “The English Gentleman”, was a triumph. Styled by GQ’s renowned Jo Levin, it showcased why there is a Great in Great Britain. Further more it gave a voice to the true tailors of Savile Row, who have struggled to compete with the invasion on their heritage from luxury brand groups in recent years. The show included the likes of Huntsman, Holland and Holland, Henry Poole, Edward Sexton and Anderson and Sheppard.

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